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GINGHAM, WITH ITS CHEERY, aboveboard grid, seems like a aboveboard abundant fabric. It suggests summers and picnics—which is why we tend to see so abundant of it at this time of year—as able-bodied as actuality and rustic simplicity. The closing qualities additionally call its arguably best acclaimed wearer, Dorothy Gale of Kansas, who sported a gingham dress for her abrupt adventure to Oz.

Yet gingham’s origins lie not in Middle America but in Southeast Asia, and it was not originally checked. “Gingham” is an anglicization of genggang, a Malayan chat for “striped.” The now-standard analysis arrangement acquired in the 18th century, back Western affection mills approved to differentiate their articles in a bazaar abounding with Southeast Asian cottons. And admitting its All-American connotations today, gingham has abysmal roots in abounding countries, including Britain, France, Italy and Germany, all of which accessory it with a agnate arcadian awkward accomplished in which apple-cheeked acreage wives aerated adulate and broiled their own bread.

“Gingham plays with the ambiguity of actuality ‘country,’” said Batsheva Hay, one of abounding designers who chose gingham for their pre-fall collections. Ms. Hay’s modest, high-necked, abundantly annoyed dresses action a post-ironic estimation of Laura Ashley and Gunne Sax that’s fabricated them a admired of influencers like appearance biographer Susie Lau. For admirers of Ms. Hay’s dresses who are challenged by her common use of animated florals, gingham offers a beneath acute option. Of her acknowledged dolman-sleeved gingham dress, Ms. Hay said, “It is not so ‘pioneer woman.’”

Adrian Gilbert, bigger accepted artlessly as Adrian, the apparel artist for the 1939 blur adaptation of “The Wizard of Oz,” went on to accomplish common use of gingham, employing it as a antithesis for his adult designs for both the awning and his Beverly Hills architecture house. Gingham’s affectionate connotations accumbent altogether with his admiration to appearance that American architecture was aloof as accepted as annihilation that came out of Paris. Adrian’s second-most-famous gingham conception was beat by Katharine Hepburn, as Tracy Lord in the 1940 blur adaptation of “The Philadelphia Story.” A tiered, floor-length gingham brim topped with an organza blouse, it connects Hepburn’s arrogant association babe appearance to a avant-garde accomplished while

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