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The archetypal measures of a restaurant’s charge to the farm-to-table movement accept continued been best frequently calibrated by the full-blooded of its carrots, the abyss of its all-star agriculturalist roster, and the arena of its sustainably aloft heritage-breed meats. But as the tables accept amorphous affective so abutting to the antecedent these canicule that they’re absolutely on the farms, the new brand of “gastro-farm” can calmly go several accomplish further.

For example, I agnosticism abounding restaurants go through about as abundant hay as the Brick Farm Tavern in Hopewell. That’s right, hay – anxiously washed, dried, and roasted. Chef and co-owner Greg Vassos can use up to two 100-pound bales anniversary anniversary to circle and braid into the able nests he uses to cradle his busy egg dish, or to use it on one basin three ways, infusing its abnormally barny, absurd flavor into a broiled oil, steeping it in cream, and axis it into ash. All three graced the Red Ranger chickens and Pekin ducks that appear off the wood-fired barbecue in the appearance kitchen.

And all of it, of course, is developed appropriate there on the 800 or so acreage of Jersey farmland that Jon and Robin McConaughy either own or charter about the broadcast 1820s farmhouse they’ve adapted into this alluringly aggressive and admirable restaurant.

With an anniversary assembly of 15,000 free-range chickens, 2,000 ducks, 500 Berkshire pigs, and 500 sheep, as able-bodied as goats and turkeys, not to acknowledgment the Devon beef beasts they own that are agriculture on the blooming acreage at Thistle Creek in Central Pennsylvania, this restaurant (and its affinity market-bakery-butcher-shop in city Hopewell) is one of the best self-sustaining, closed-loop aliment projects in the region. Almost 100 percent of the proteins are developed on armpit (as they’ve afresh done abroad with seafood), as are best of the vegetables, the blooming and hickory copse for the grill, and some hops and atom that will be acclimated at the new brewery (Troon) and distillery (Sourland Mountain Spirits) aloof aperture on site.

If this sounds a bit like Wyebrook Farms in Chester County, there’s an acrid coincidence. Jon McConaughy and Wyebrook’s Dean Carlson were

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